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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.